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Mr. Done Right's Blog

Jupiter Microlite – the facts you need to know

When you by a Jupiter MicroLite Water Ionizer you will be taking the first step towards inaugurating the harmonizing of your essential internal pH towards its suitable level. The Jupiter MicroLite Water Ionizer has all of the positive characteristics of the trendy products that are presently being shown all over the place.

The Jupiter MicroLite has all of the positive attributes of its precursors, the Jupiter Masterpiece and Jupiter Mavello. This design for this unit has been renovated to be more competent and easier to use. The Jupiter MicroLite also contains the revolutionary BioStone Far Infrared filter which is seen as the biggest advance in the construction of electronic water ionizers in years.

The water which you are currently getting from the tap is teeming with an array of harmful living and non-living matter, and it is dead in an energetic sense due to its lengthy enclosed passage from the reservoir to your home over the mediums of steel, plastic, concrete and copper pipe. The work of your Jupiter MicroLite is to revitalize your water and to restore life to it.

All Jupiter Science units sift out any hazardous matter in your water including an array of different bacteria using the multi-stage activated carbon filters which can be replaced. In addition to straining out all harmful matter from the water that is put into it, the Jupiter MicroLite strains the water through what has been named the Biostone. The Biostone is a ceramic produced from Tourmaline.

Tourmaline as a rule emanates Far Infra-Red energy (FIR) and this modifies the tension of the water’s surface, ensuring that the water is easier to process by the Jupiter Microlite Water Ionizer and initiating the negative ion creation process.

This guarantees that you get superior water, even if the water is only cleaned, and you will receive a greater advantage from the antioxidant effect on the ionized water, without augmentation of the alkalinity level. These inventive filters are becoming accepted in all of the upcoming Jupiter units. It performs the same function as an antioxidant ‘booster’.

Additionally, Jupiter Science has included Coral Calcium in the filter. This inclusion will help ionization in water that is in short supply of minerals such as tank water. The coral calcium also helps to sustain our interior calcium stability. Coral Calcium has the ideal 2:1 blend proportion of calcium and magnesium with a large quantity of important trace minerals. The new Biostone filter is included in the MicroLite package and is installed prior to arrival. Or you can choose to buy your MicroLite with a regular Jupiter filter.

The Jupiter MicroLite Water Ionizer comes with a two year warranty that should give you a feeling of security due to the fact that Jupiter Science has been among the most prominent producers of water ionizer for 20 years and is the only such manufacturer allowed to enter the European Common Market.

You can select any one of five different levels of water pH on the Jupiter Microlite to make certain that the water ionizer fulfills the needs of yourself and all your family members. For the duration the cleaning period pleasant sound effects are provided for you.

To instill you with peace of mind temperature and pressure safety systems are put in place. There is a new-look diverter valve for the tap which has been decreased in size. The automatic water cleansing period makes certain that there is no need to ever wait for your water. There in no need to be anxious about a swell in the amount of bacteria either.

Thank you for taking the time with me to learn more about what Mr. Done Right, the handyman / contractor does for you.

Sincerely,

Don Fenton

(AKA) Mr. Done Right

For more information on handyman or contractor work in the greater Austin area (or beyond), please contact your premiere handyman, Don Fenton, AKA Mr. Done Right Handyman Contractor of Austin, because Mr. Done Right ensures any repairs and/or remodels get Done Right the first time! Call us now for a free estimate! 512-659-8931

www.Handyman-Austin.com

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Dishwasher Belt – Don’t Let It Slip

You have an older dishwasher and it’s serving you well. Let’s make that was serving you well. See, the problem is… fixing it. If your dishwasher has stopped filling or draining all of a sudden or has its moments when it will work and when it won’t – check the belt.

The belt connects the motor to the pump using pulleys. When the motor rotates in one direction the pump fills the dishwasher. When the motor rotates in the opposite direction, the pump drains the dishwasher.

If your dishwasher isn’t filling or draining at all, the belt could be broken. If your dishwasher occasionally works, the belt is probably stretched and is slipping. Take a closer look at your dishwasher’s belt.

The belt is approximately 25 inches long and made of clear or black rubber. The belt is located behind the lower access panel, which is sometimes referred to as a kickplate. Getting to the belt is easy and since you don’t have pull the dishwasher out from the wall, this repair won’t take long. The only tool you will need is a screwdriver.

Always remember
It’s important to cut the power source to the dishwasher before attempting any repairs. You can unplug the power cord, remove the fuse from the fuse box, or flip the breaker in the circuit breaker panel. After the power is cut, you may continue.

Open the dishwasher door to locate the screws for the access panel. Once the screws are removed, close the door and remove the panel. The old belt will be stretched a bit making it easier to remove. It will slip down off the pulleys. Replacing the belt is not so simple. It will have a much tighter fit.

The easiest way to get a new belt on the pulleys is to put one end of the belt around the pump housing, directly above the pump pulley. Put the other end of the belt around the motor pulley. Carefully roll the belt down the pump housing until it sits properly in place.

Finally you can reattach the access panel and reconnect the power source. Your old dishwasher is back up and ready to go again.

Thank you for taking the time with me to learn more about what Mr. Done Right, the handyman / contractor does for you.

Sincerely,

Don Fenton

(AKA) Mr. Done Right

For more information on handyman or contractor work in the greater Austin area (or beyond), please contact your premiere handyman, Don Fenton, AKA Mr. Done Right Handyman Contractor of Austin, because Mr. Done Right ensures any repairs and/or remodels get Done Right the first time! Call us now for a free estimate! 512-659-8931

www.Handyman-Austin.com

 

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* Click here to protect your privacy and the safety of your children on the Internet.

Determining And Fixing Plumbing Noises In Your Home

To diagnose noisy plumbing, it is important to determine first whether the unwanted sounds occur on the system’s inlet side-in other words, when water is turned on-or on the drain side. Noises on the inlet side have varied causes: excessive water pressure, worn valve and faucet parts, improperly connected pumps or other appliances, incorrectly placed pipe fasteners, and plumbing runs containing too many tight bends or other restrictions. Noises on the drain side usually stem from poor location or, as with some inlet side noise, a layout containing tight bends.

Hissing

Hissing noise that occurs when a faucet is opened slightly generally signals excessive water pressure. Consult your local water company if you suspect this problem; it will be able to tell you the water pressure in your area and can install a pressurereducing valve on the incoming water supply pipe if necessary.

Thudding

Thudding noise, often accompanied by shuddering pipes, when a faucet or appliance valve is turned off is a condition called water hammer. The noise and vibration are caused by the reverberating wave of pressure in the water, which suddenly has no place to go. Sometimes opening a valve that discharges water quickly into a section of piping containing a restriction, elbow, or tee fitting can produce the same condition.

Water hammer can usually be cured by installing fittings called air chambers or shock absorbers in the plumbing to which the problem valves or faucets are connected. These devices allow the shock wave created by the halted flow of water to dissipate in the air they contain, which (unlike water) is compressible.

Older plumbing systems may have short vertical sections of capped pipe behind walls on faucet runs for the same purpose; these can eventually fill with water, reducing or destroying their effectiveness. The cure is to drain the water system completely by shutting off the main water supply valve and opening all faucets. Then open the main supply valve and close the faucets one at a time, starting with the faucet nearest the valve and ending with the one farthest away.

Chattering or Screeching

Intense chattering or screeching that occurs when a valve or faucet is turned on, and that usually disappears when the fitting is opened fully, signals loose or defective internal parts. The solution is to replace the valve or faucet with a new one.

Pumps and appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers can transfer motor noise to pipes if they are improperly connected. Link such items to plumbing with plastic or rubber hoses-never rigid pipe-to isolate them.

Other Inlet Side Noises

Creaking, squeaking, scratching, snapping, and tapping usually are caused by the expansion or contraction of pipes, generally copper ones supplying hot water. The sounds occur as the pipes slide against loose fasteners or strike nearby house framing. You can often pinpoint the location of the problem if the pipes are exposed; just follow the sound when the pipes are making noise. Most likely you will discover a loose pipe hanger or an area where pipes lie so close to floor joists or other framing pieces that they clatter against them. Attaching foam pipe insulation around the pipes at the point of contact should remedy the problem. Be sure straps and hangers are secure and provide adequate support. Where possible, pipe fasteners should be attached to massive structural elements such as foundation walls instead of to framing; doing so lessens the transmission of vibrations from plumbing to surfaces that can amplify and transfer them. If attaching fasteners to framing is unavoidable, wrap pipes with insulation or other resilient material where they contact fasteners, and sandwich the ends of new fasteners between rubber washers when installing them.

Correcting plumbing runs that suffer from flow-restricting tight or numerous bends is a last resort that should be undertaken only after consulting a skilled plumbing contractor. Unfortunately, this situation is fairly common in older houses that may not have been built with indoor plumbing or that have seen several remodels, especially by amateurs.

Drainpipe Noise

On the drain side of plumbing, the chief goals are to eliminate surfaces that can be struck by falling or rushing water and to insulate pipes to contain unavoidable sounds.

In new construction, bathtubs, shower stalls, toilets, and wallmounted sinks and basins should be set on or against resilient underlayments to reduce the transmission of sound through them. Water-saving toilets and faucets are less noisy than conventional models; install them instead of older types even if codes in your area still permit using older fixtures.

Drainpipes that do not run vertically to the basement or that branch into horizontal pipe runs supported at floor joists or other framing present particularly troublesome noise problems. Such pipes are large enough to radiate considerable vibration; they also carry significant amounts of water, which makes the situation worse. In new construction, specify cast-iron soil pipes (the large pipes that drain toilets) if you can afford them. Their massiveness contains much of the noise made by water passing through them. Also, avoid routing drainpipes in walls shared with bedrooms and rooms where people gather. Walls containing drainpipes should be soundproofed as was described earlier, using double panels of sound-insulating fiberboard and wallboard. Pipes themselves can be wrapped with special fiberglass insulation made for the purpose; such pipes have an impervious vinyl skin (sometimes containing lead). Results are not always satisfactory.

Thank you for taking the time with me to learn more about what Mr. Done Right, the handyman / contractor does for you.

Sincerely,

Don Fenton

(AKA) Mr. Done Right

For more information on handyman or contractor work in the greater Austin area (or beyond), please contact your premiere handyman, Don Fenton, AKA Mr. Done Right Handyman Contractor of Austin, because Mr. Done Right ensures any repairs and/or remodels get Done Right the first time! Call us now for a free estimate! 512-659-8931

www.Handyman-Austin.com

 

Mr. Done Right on Facebook Mr. Done Right on Yelp Mr. Done Right on Angie's List Mr. Done Right on Yellow Pages, YP.com

* Click here to protect your privacy and the safety of your children on the Internet.

 
 

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